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Alloys which are suitable include 304L and 316L.
Equipment fabricated of stainless steel must have proper surface preparation. It must also be chemically passivated prior to use with hydrogen peroxide. This removes surface impurities and creates an inert layer on the surface of the metal.
Properly passivated stainless steel provides a very stable surface for the storage of hydrogen peroxide.
that was taken from here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide#SafetyHydrogen peroxide should be stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area and away from any flammable or combustible substances.[36] It should be stored in a container composed of non-reactive materials such as stainless steel or glass (other materials including some plastics and aluminium alloys may also be suitable).[37] Because it breaks down quickly when exposed to light, it should be stored in an opaque container, and pharmaceutical formulations typically come in brown bottles that filter out light.[38]
taken from: http://www.ozoneservices.com/articles/004.htmTheoretical rating (Cole Parmer)
Material Compatibility 10% H2O2 Compatibility 30% H2O2 Compatibility 50% H2O2 Compatibility 100% H2O2
304 stainless steel B2 - Good B2 - Good B2 - Good B2 - Good
316 stainless steel B - Good B - Good A2 - Excellent A2 - Excellent
3. 50-75ppm Bath for 30mins every 3 days for a period no shorter than 28days. Used as a means of breaking the life cycle of parasitic protozoans such as A.ocellatum and C.irritans within an infected system whilst fish remain in the system. All fish within the system must be treated, regardless of whether an infection appears to be present.
CheezotheClown wrote:Just to update.
The Majestic's look and behaviour is improving. I'm maintaining a 30 minute, 75ppm bath every 3rd day.
Still no closer to diagnosing what it is thoughI do note that there is an amount of white/clear particles varying in size left in the bath after treatment. I've noted some dead scales in there too.
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