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Dammit's 4' x 15" x 18" Calfo - [SOLD]

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Dammit's 4' x 15" x 18" Calfo - [SOLD]

Postby dammit » Sun 26 Jul, 2009 1:22 pm

Full system now for sale.
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Price $700



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Introduction:
New Update - 1/10/09
After running the 215L standard 4' tank with a very average skimmer, algae problems, filtration problems, marine ich/disease problems and 6 deaths, i decided it was time to stop mucking around and do things properly.

I made the big decision to drain the tank, research more and this is what I came up with:

* I needed a sump and an overflow - I decided on the Calfo.
* Drill 4 holes in the display tank.
* Get glass cut and silicone in a Calfo overflow/weir.
* Plumb the system.
* Modify the cabinet to make more structurally sound/room for sump.
* Add a sump (decided on a 3' L x 15" W x 20" H = 175L)
* Add a chiller - Bought a Hailea HC-250A rated for 600L.
* Add a decent skimmer (still working on).
* Buy a reliable return pump -> Chose the Aquabee UP3000.
* Apply black vinyl background to tank.

All the below that you read will be from May-July when I was starting, with the newest stuff further down with the latest pics.

Happy reading and as always I would love to hear from anyone with any feedback or suggestions/ideas you can offer.

~~~~~

I started my tank at the beginning of May 2009. Prior to this I have never had any experience with aquariums in my life apart from the odd feeding etc of Dad's tank when I was young/etc but that was gold fish. After much consideration, I decided to jump straight in the deep end and go for a marine aquarium because gold fish or cichlids did not have enough wow factor for me. I bought the tank second hand on eBay for about $400 and added a few extra pieces of equipment myself. I have got an RO unit now too.

System Objectives:
To have a stable, healthy, bright and interesting reef tank that when someone walks through the door they instantly look and say WOW. Other objective is to gain experience and knowledge so I can upgrade to a larger tank (e.g. 6x2x2 or 8 foot) in a year or so.

System Type: Originally was going to be FOWLR. Bought some live rock that had a leather coral with it so now I am going for the mixed reef.

Display System:

Strike up Date: 4/5/2009

Display Tank: 4 foot x 15" x 18" (approx 215L).

Display Lighting: 6 x 54watt 4' fluoros T5 2 x 10K, 2 x 14K, 2 x Actinic blue.

Stand: Pine stand painted black.

Hood: Pine hood painted black.

Sump: After much consideration did not drill the tank to add a sump. Probably should have. Thinking about now adding an overflow/implementing a sump now but still just thinking/on the back burner. May try to hold out until I eventually upgrade.

Refugium: N/A

Refugium Lighting: N/A


Support systems:

System Water: Started with ASW, now moved to NSW. I live on the Gold Coast so would be silly not to use NSW. The water here is beautiful.

Display Water circulation: 2 x 3000L/hr JVP, 1 x 6000L/hr JVP (Total flow 12,000LPH or ~60x).

Return Pump: N/A

Skimmer: Dymax XP-30 In-Tank Protein Skimmer. This is a little In-Tank skimmer with a small cup. It works ok, but isn't the greatest, and an upgrade is on the cards soon as I can pick the right one and have the $.

Evaporation Top Up: Manual - plans to set up auto top up.


Chemical Support:

Calcium Addition: Nil

Alkilinity Addition: Nil

Other Chemical Maintenance: Nil

Current Water Chemistry:
Nitrates: Undetectable
Phosphates: Unknown (don't have test kit) assume its high due to algae problem.
Alkalinity: 3.21meq/L / 9.0dKH
Calcium: Unknown
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.025.
Magnesuim: Unknown

What's In The Tank:
1 Sarcophyton / Leather Coral
30kg Live Rock
2 x Stromb Snails (currently missing in action>under DSB)
10cm DSB (beach sand)
Misc snails (about 8. 1 x Trochus, some others unsure of identity)
1 x B&W Juvenile Oscellaris Clown Fish.

Images:

Tank Pic
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Lighting:
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Adding DSB:
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Got 30kg of LR for $60 2nd hand. Good deal.
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Stromb snails prior to them digging into DSB and not resurfacing yet:
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1st big algae problem from back in June 09:
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Skimmate
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My current algae problem
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would like to know what this little thing is kind of looks like a funnel/flower
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Clown with whitespot :(
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seems ok now though
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Last edited by dammit on Wed 07 Jul, 2010 11:56 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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Postby dammit » Sun 26 Jul, 2009 1:33 pm

Unfortunately, I have not had a lot of success so far with live stock. It has been a bit disappointing and at times I have felt like putting a rock through the tank.

I am trying really hard to get things stable and not to kill any more fish.

It is a bit embarrassing but this is the list of fish I have had and what happened to them.

2 x Chromis. Well 1 Chromis was agressive and chased the other one nipping at its tail until it died. I bought a mesh "time out" cage to put him in but it was too late :( to catch him I had to rip the tank apart because he hid under rocks and terrorised me. Once he killed his mate he turned very nice.

Agro one LHS, sick one RHS (see the tail).
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Then with the 1 agro chromis I bought 2 Juvenile B&W clowns.
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I got the chromis into time out and rearranged the tank, then added the clowns. Great, they all got along. They were beautiful fish, so tiny. I cleaned the algae in the tank and they both took a turn for the worse and both died (RIP) :(. I got them from Reef Secrets and Darren saw my post about them and gave me 2 new ones for free (great shop, thank you Darren).

At this stage I had just the 1 agro Chromis left while waiting for the 2 new clowns to come in. Having to attend a funeral at spur of the moment and leave the house for 4 days, I did not have much time to prepare the tank but cleaned/water changed and asked for advice and thought the Chromis would be fine for a few days. Returned home to find him dead and the tank filthy. The skimmer cup got full/overflowed so was no longer working effectively and the tank was full of poo. So that wiped the tank out and had no fish left. Adjusted the skimmer so it does not go so watery now, more frothy. does not need emptying so often.

Anyway with no fish and things starting to clean up, the 2 new replacement clowns came in so I went and picked them up about 3 weeks ago.

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2 weeks after I had them the algae was getting bad again and I started to clean all the equipment and both clowns instantly got really sick. I wondered if it was poisonous algae, something wrong with my cleaning regime, or because a little DSB got stirred up (very minor) that did this to them. Fearing the worst I did 2 x fresh water baths on the 2 clowns. the big clown pulled through and is still a happy solo resident of the tank. the little one did not make it (again RIP).

So thats my story. All up I have killed 5 fish which I am not proud of. Currently I only have 1 fish and am not getting any more until I learn more/things stablise.

Here is the one that is still in the tank alive and doing well

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Postby dammit » Sun 26 Jul, 2009 1:47 pm

Picture of Leather Sarcophyton Coral that I acquired with my live rock:

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Im thinking about adding a vinyl background to the tank rather than the whitish wall. Who thinks I should go blue, who thinks black??
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Postby kolzy » Sun 26 Jul, 2009 3:19 pm

things can only get better mate. i had problems with fish when i started to.
bloody things can be harder to keep going than coral!

cant help with your background but i like black ;)
i reckon if you got a decent skimmer & improved water flow your tank'd be in heaps better shape. i know you say 60x turnover but IME i can only grow that algae if theres crappy flow and hi nutrients. maybe you could even run some carbon & rowa in a canister. if you got one lying around. then that algae'd starve and wulla. prime real estate 4 corals! :thumbsup:
also chuck in a collector urchin. he'll make a big dent in your algae

one more thing. that mixed reef isnt as far away as u think :devil: try a couple of softies. the unkillable ones like leathers and shrooms. think of em as going to kindy. by the time there going great guns you can add some harder stuff.
have a nice day!
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Postby dammit » Sun 26 Jul, 2009 10:11 pm

The tank did come with a 1200L/hr canister filter. I was using it until recently with bio noodles etc in it. Since learning more and figuring out this is not great to have in a marine tank I have removed it. I was going to sell it on ebay but now I think they are handy for quarantine/hospital tanks so I am going to keep it.

The other issue I have is my clown got white spot. I did not know/think quarantining was necessary, so I believe I've infected the main tank with white spot which is not good. I plan to set up a QT soon and remove the 1 clown I have for 6 weeks so I can get rid of white spot from the tank. From then on I will quarantine all new fish for 6 weeks prior to putting in the tank. The clown only had 2 minor cases of white spot (spots lasting for less than 12 hours both times 2 weeks apart). I don't know how big an issue it is and whether that action of removing him for 6 weeks is necessary though.

Good idea bout carbon, would I just use "activated carbon" in the canister? Will look into these collector urchins, they look pretty cool- can you buy them at LFS's/how much are they worth? :)
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Postby anthony mazzeri » Thu 13 Aug, 2009 3:12 am

I would re-add the canister to help with mechanical filtration rather than relying on just that skimmer. Run carbon in it as suggested as well. Marina is a good available brand. Avoid cheap shiny carbon usually from China which is useless. Proper activated carbon is a dull matte black so it's easy to tell the difference between good and shonky carbon.

The canister will be useful especially when you do the cleaning which has apparently caused you problems, it'll help clear all the crap out of the water faster. Be sure to clean out the canister frequently so it doesn't just sit there full of all the aforementioned muck, you want it out and gone.

You can even add a pouch/bag of phosphate remover to it as well if you think it's necessary.
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Postby Dallas » Sun 23 Aug, 2009 6:42 pm

Hey Dammit

I agree with anthony. You're best to put your canister back on. You need some kind of mechanical filtration and judging by that photo of the skimmate, that skimmer is not doing much at all for your tank. The canister, although it will produce nitrate, will reduce organics in the water that are decaying and releasing all kinds of nasties in the water. But you must clean it out regularly. Nitrate can be controlled with regular water changes. As you are close to the Seaway you might be able to do these quite often.

I think you added fish before your cycle was over, hence the high amount of deaths. 30 kilos of live rock in one go is a lot to cure without releasing a butt load of ammonia into the water. Although, it was in a reef tank before so technically it should have been OK if you'd swapped it straight over. The stromb snails dying would have spiked the ammonia as well.

I would leave the clown in there. Moving it to a QT will just stress it out more unless your QT is absolutely in A1 condition to treat the clown. Add nothing else for six weeks and see how you are then.

I think that, depending on your water change frequency, you will find that your nitrates and phosphates are high as well. The beach sand may also be releasing silicates which diatoms would love.


If you join MASQ you can borrow books from our library and attend meetings to help you learn more. If you're a student it's only 12 or so bucks.
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Postby dammit » Fri 28 Aug, 2009 10:54 pm

Time for an update. Well the 1 remaining fish I had died back at the end of July. I have been letting the tank sit for what has now been 5 weeks to get any 'ich' out of the system.

During this time I have added a gravity fed auto top up with stefani float:
This auto top up works quite well, I had a bracket which I cut to suit, and used GN12 nylon electrical cable glands for a clean snug fit. no leaks :)
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Also setup a quarantine tank to prevent any disease in the future (now waiting for this to cycle):
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This quarantine tank has a canister filter, heater and now a 3000L/hr power head but thats it. It is 3' x 15" x 18" in size (~150L capacity). I didn't have any room in the house so it is currently in the garage, now thinking this is a mistake given the hot days we have had on the gold coast (30+) and not having a chiller connected to it, with summer looming. Considering moving it into the house which is cooler but don't have any room :S

and am now thinking about things a whole lot better, planning instead of rushing.



Next on the list I am installing a Calfo weir, adding a sump for stability, then will upgrade the skimmer and look at adding a chiller.

Weir plan:
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the one leather coral I have in the display tank seems to be going great guns still:
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But I do have a small aiptasia problem I am also trying to deal with.


Hows this for team work? Stromb snail cleaning the back of the Trochus
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The sump I purchased is approx 87L capacity so might only end up with ~50L full. Contemplating whether this is enough or if I need to make this tank my QT, and get the QT (150L) set up as the sump...decisions.

After all that I need to get some diamond hole saws so I can drill 4 holes in the DT, and then figure out all these weird and wonderful plumbing bits that im gonna need and find out where to buy them!
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Postby sydneydrewid » Fri 28 Aug, 2009 10:59 pm

i personally think the bigger the sump the better :thumbsup:
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Postby Lutjanus » Mon 31 Aug, 2009 7:01 pm

A black background would look good on your tank - it would match the hood and cabinet I think. Make it look slick.

If the larger tank fits in the cabinet, I too would use it as the sump. :thumbsup: You can never have too much sump. It'll be easier for you to incorporate it now, rather than if you change your mind later.
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Postby dammit » Mon 14 Sep, 2009 9:26 pm

Ok. I mucked up a bit in not taking advice properly/rushing into things which I learnt slightly the hard way. After much deliberation I pulled the tank apart/drained it and am now prepping to add the larger tank for sump (180L), modified the cabinet, about to drill the tank (4 holes 3 for calfo 1 for return), repainted/sealed the cabinet properly, and get things going properly.

Then I will buy a new skimmer and add a chiller.

This was the cabinet before I modified it, the shelf was too high/restricting to add any decent sized sump. I removed the shelf, and changed it to a big piece of wood on the bottom to provide the structural support (stop legs folding in) without using up any of the head room I desperately need for the sump. This result in an increase height of the cabinet of approx 4cm.

cabinet before change
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Cabinet after
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The insides of the cabinet were just raw timber, so I sealed/primed it all and going to paint it all black so it doesnt get water damaged
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This will be the sump - I will DIY install Baffles etc
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DSB now in garbage bin while I get the tank ready again
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Display tank now dry (realise now I should have cleaned the algae out of the inside while still wet, the algae has now dried rock hard)
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All my LR and piece of coral from DT now living in what is the newly setup QT (85L tank), giving it a good chance to cycle. Hopefully not too much dies. Its hard keeping temp levels in range got up to 29 degrees :S hopefully the coral does not get too cranky..

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Postby Lutjanus » Mon 14 Sep, 2009 10:52 pm

Looking good.

What dimensions did you decide on for the calfo?
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Postby dammit » Tue 15 Sep, 2009 3:23 pm

Calfo will be 12.5cm x 12.5cm, by 110cm long. The other 10cm long will be the little spot for the return with the bottom pane of glass missing so the return can go thru the tank.

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Just not sure if its ok to drill hole within say 6cm of the edge of glass, I know with car windscreens if u get a chip near the edge it can crack ur whole windscreen not sure if this applies to drilling holes close to an edge for fishtank glass though.

Boy plumbing fittings are expensive, I was in bunnings the other day, 3 pipes/fittings for calfo and 1 return pipework I think will cost me over $100! Going to try find a cheaper place :S
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Postby davez104 » Tue 15 Sep, 2009 3:31 pm

dammit wrote:Boy plumbing fittings are expensive, I was in bunnings the other day, 3 pipes/fittings for calfo and 1 return pipework I think will cost me over $100! Going to try find a cheaper place :S


You're not wrong there! I've been pricing up all the plumbing to do my entire tank, closed loops and all. Similar figure to yours, just with an extra zero on the end :o :o

With regard to the hole, most seem to recommend trying to leave 100mm between the edge of the hole and the edge of the glass if at all possible. The closer you get to the edge the more chance it would have of cracking. I don't think you would have any trouble with 60mm though, as it is close to the top of the tank and has bracing around it in the form of the glass box. Still, put it as far from the edge as is practical.

Cheers,
Dave.
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Postby Lutjanus » Tue 15 Sep, 2009 4:04 pm

http://www.wetearth.com.au/

That should save you a few dollars :cheers:
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Postby dammit » Fri 25 Sep, 2009 11:50 pm

Cabinet painting all done here is the finished product of the modified, fully painted cabinet - it should not get any water damage now compared to the raw mdf. the bottom piece of wood overhangs at the back slightly this is because my sump is bigger width than my main tank, it shouldnt matter because i hope the plumbing will drop straight down into the sump without too much drama. this will hopefully give it a nice flush finish.

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here is the drilling holes part.. I bought a 35mm diamond hole saw on ebay for $12 inc postage, good deal. had to drill 4 holes, 1 return and 3 holes for the calfo. have never drilled glass before in my life, couple of youtube vids and a bit of a read and i was good to go. went slow at first, after the 2nd hole and it taking 40 mins a hole i lost a bit of patience and let it roar. luckily all went well , the holes are a little rough but hopefully they'll be right.

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return
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all holes done, the RHS 1 went a bit wonky (woops).
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Postby dammit » Sat 26 Sep, 2009 12:00 am

Now I have gotten my glass cut. got three bits 1205mm x 100mm, 1080mm x 130mm, 100mm x 130mm. if you look up above at my plan diagram this glass is to build that. cost me $49 at a glazier with the edges smoothed.

time to silicone, i have never siliconed glass/fish tanks before, this was probably the hardest thing ive had to do so far. lots of mucking around and silicone everywhere, i kind of anihilated the tank a bit :S hopefully i can clean it up ok and it doesnt leak.

i do notice the silicone takes 7 days to cure which is a bummer. im wondering if i can get the tank wet tomorrow just to see/make sure the silicone is all sealed/100% and the weir doesnt leak etc, i would hate to lose 7 days of curing time only to find in a weeks time i didn't do it well enough in spot and have to wait another week..

hopefully i can use a razor blade and clean up the silicone a bit, i used vodka to clean the surfaces instead of turps becaus i think turps is a no no for aquariums. at the end i felt like a vodka myself.

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oh and i was using pepsi cans and water bottles to hold everything together. - one tip for all, don't think you've found a great idea of using pepsi cans inside the overflow to hold up the front piece, it works great but as i realised... omg after i siliconed it all in i figured out the pepsi cans were such snug fit that i cant get them out because of the bracing/tight squeeze and they are full/unopened.. :wall: :wall: :wall: anyways had to re-silicone that piece of glass in due to that silly mistake.

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unfortunately, and im kicking myself this happened, the top part of the front panel of the overflow is not 100% parallel to the back of the tank, it seems to be on an ever so slight angle at the top leading to the drilled holes. i tried really hard with set squares etc to get this right but unfortunately something must have moved which mucked it up :( hopefully it will be right and not effect the mechanics of the overflow and not be too noticable.

i hope i got the heights right too, the water level should be approx 2cm from the top, the calfo measurements are 10cm tall by 13cm wide, i did this to make room for the bulkheads (now i realise i can have them round the other way anyhow) it goes the full length of tank but there is the bottom mising in the last 12 cm for the return . i did it like this because if I made the return any lower if I got a blackout it would siphon and my sump would overflow - i didn't want to waste valuable sump capacity



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Postby dammit » Sat 26 Sep, 2009 6:31 pm

This weekend I visited bunnings and got all of my fittings, the only thing I couldn't get was any 25mm barrell unions, i wasn't going to pay $18 each for them so i'll have to find some cheaper.

Hopefully i have done this right, appreciate any comments.

The majority of the fittings are rural/agricultural, I did not research or investigate if this is the same as pvc pressure fittings but I hope it will be right (can someone confirm)?

The parts I could not get in black I bought in standard white pvc.

I don’t know if there are any implications in having mostly threaded connections, is this more likely to leak/more fiddley than slip/cement or as long as there is thread tape and they’re tight will it be ok?

Heres the components for each of the 3 standpipe's:

1” elbow (female to female threaded).
1” threaded male to threaded male adaptor
Screws straight into 1” female part of RXP 1” bulkheads.
1” RXP bulkhead with female end in the tank/water, male end outside of tank.
1” threaded tee – screws directly into the RXP bulkhead male thread
1” cap screws directly into top of tee.
1” threaded male to threaded male adaptor.
1” PVC EPDM threaded ball vale
1” threaded male to 1” slip adaptor.
1” union (still to buy)
1” Pvc pipe will lead direct to sump.

Total cost per pipe $50. (these fittings sure do add up, & i did it the cheapest way I could).

and pictures

view of all the plumbing - 3 standpipes 1 return. any slip connections I will cement with clear primer/cement. can someone advise if standard 10mm teflon tape is ok for threaded connections or should i source some 25mm wide teflon tape. is white ok or should i use pink (not sure about this). and do i tighten connections just by hand really tight or use a spanner or something?

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close up of return plumbing:

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close up/expanded view of standpipe:

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looking at the first pic of the connected stand pipes, is it OK that the ball valves are so close to the tee/bulkhead? I did this so i could screw straight into the tee fitting with an adaptor, i plan to put a union directly below it so i can turn off the ball valve and unscrew the pipework leading to the sump if moving the tank/cleaning it without too much drama, does that seem right?

I also have a thread in the equipment section relating to the calfo, with myself and a few other members showing their progress on calfo installations - link here
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Postby Scooby » Sat 26 Sep, 2009 6:51 pm

Yeah even my local Mitre 10 is about a 1/3 cheaper on PVC fittings.

Looking great keep up the good work.
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Postby dammit » Thu 01 Oct, 2009 11:35 pm

Here is the new FTS with the sump below, you can see how the sump takes most of the room in the cabinet now.

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Clearance is VERY limited, i probably should find a new sump but I want to work with what i've got (surely 13cm clearance and some squeezing will do).

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Other exiting news, I bought an Aquabee UP3000 and a Hailea HC-250A chiller from Guppy's. Im really pleased with the service and speed of guppy's, however Im a bit upset I bought an aquabee pump and they dont have an aussie power plug, i figure im really going to need the chiller (my QT got up to 31 degrees in the double garage the other day.

Its as big as a 16" tyre!
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Spewin, you an see the wrong power plug, it came with an adaptor tho so I spose that's something.
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Doing a test
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This is where the chiller will live, there is a nice linen cupboard directly behind the tank (convenient aren't i!) The mrs is not happy about losing that cupboard tho !

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Now I (think I) have 2 options for getting hoses to the chiller, i can either use the standard barbed hose I think they are called, and buy some reinforced/pressure hose. Gotta work out if this is really the case esp with the chillers connection. Also not sure whether to go from the sump to the chiller using flexible hose or using pvc piping/elbows etc.

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Now I have those few toys, its back to getting organised and back on track, next up is finding a suitable skimmer and finishing plumbing.
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Postby deanlh » Mon 05 Oct, 2009 6:53 pm

Dammit

I'm really liking this build as it's helping me with mine, i'm kinda copying a little as the tanks are exactly the same size ;) . :clap:

I am watching very closely and when mine is up and running i will start a journal and hopefully So it's up to you no mistakes :roflmao:

Cheers dean
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Postby dammit » Mon 05 Oct, 2009 8:31 pm

hey dean,
nice to hear from you - theres not many around (that I know of anyway) with tanks our size, most go for 4x2x2's . sometimes i wish i went 4x2x2 but i am working with what I have and will see how we go.

i see you are on the gold coast too, great place to be!

Today I went to a signwriter (ags.com.au) and got 1260mm x 1 meter of black self adhesive signwriters vinyl - cost $22. going to apply that to the back so I have a nice black background.

I leak tested my siliconing yesterday, there was one really small drip leak in the calfo, i prob could have easily gotten away with leaving it as-is, but i want it to be perfect so i dried it up and went over that 1 little spot, now waiting 3-5 days for that to cure and will apply my background, and finish off my plumbing.

I plumbed my chiller in from Sump/Return Pump > Chiller > DT, using 19mm black poly pipe which is a nice look and very affordable - will be good to see if it leaks/disaster or if it works out ok. i will leak test that this week.
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Postby deanlh » Tue 06 Oct, 2009 10:30 am

Dammit In relation to your skimmer..

I too have height restrictions and the only one i could find that would fit under the tank and still be suitable for the volume and the right price was the bubble magus Na66 from guppies..

I'm about a month or two from actually getting anything in my tank so will hopefully soon get my tank journal up and running.

Ps thanks for the heads up on the signwriter website..

Cheers Dean
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Postby germar74 » Sun 15 Nov, 2009 9:25 am

dammit
great place to buy the background have dealt with AGS numerous times before
make sure u apply the signwriting film wet
we always used a mixture of 90% water, 10% metho and a sqirt of baby shampoo
the metho helps the water dry up (apparently) and the baby shampoo lets your film slip around to the right place before you start adding pressure which will allow the adhesive to start working - pressure in the form of squeegeeing out the mixture from between the film and glass

I had no bubbles under my film doing it this way

btw nice build
cheers gerard
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Postby davez104 » Sun 15 Nov, 2009 9:55 am

Hey dammit, any chance you could link to the exact product you got? I've had a look at the site, but there are so many different products to choose from :nut:

Cheers,
Dave.
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Postby dammit » Sun 15 Nov, 2009 10:15 am

Davez - here we go:
http://www.ags.com.au/store/item.asp?Ca ... 1-070-1260

on the invoice it reads:
Item 751C 070 1260 (751-070-1260) ORACAL 8yr Cast Black 1 Mtr $20.22 + gst

it is 1260mm wide, i think 1m is the minimum they sell so you would get a bit that measures 1260x1000mm if you bought the minimum :)
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Postby davez104 » Sun 15 Nov, 2009 10:52 am

Thanks for that. Might be a better alternative to painting I think.

Cheers,
Dave.
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Postby dammit » Sun 15 Nov, 2009 11:53 am

ok ive been very slack updating so here goes

I have applied the black vinyl background to the tank, was easier than I thought. looks great.

Image


sprayed back of tank with water and dish washing liquid very generously
Image

got a car squeege and 10 minutes work and WOW, much easier than I anticipated (thought it would be like using contact to cover a book, but this was a walk in the park, think it was mainly due to being so generous with the water.

Image

cut holes out for overflows and returns
Image

end result
Image
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Postby davez104 » Sun 15 Nov, 2009 11:59 am

Nice :thumbsup:
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Postby dammit » Sun 15 Nov, 2009 12:02 pm

Next after this it was time to get all the plumbing hooked up, which involved 3 overflow pipes (Syphon, open channel and emergency) as well as plumbing from the return, to the chiller, then to the tank.

Image

Image

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After that, I did some fresh water testing.

I hit a brick wall for a good week or two, I could not get the calfo to be silent which was the whole point of having a calfo overflow. banged my head against the brick wall and seeked help from others, finally got it sorted.

adjusting the ball value is extremely sensitive. also the airline hose height plays a very important role. but after fiddling around for ages, i realised the main culprit to the problem was the return pump was not pumping enough flow to get the calfo to fully purge all air it needed to after a blackout.

this was due to the return going from the sump, through many many elbows and bends and so forth to the chiller then back to the display tank. to fix this, i had to change it a bit plumbing the return straight to the display tank, and then using a tee to branch off from the main return line to the chiller. this meant the DT gets most of the flow, and the chiller now only gets 600L/hr of flow -> this is at the lower end of its operating specs. the downside is the chiller now has to empty back into the sump so the sump will stay nice and cold but the main tank will be a bit warmer, but that was the only option without buying another pump.

the other thing i figured out when troubleshooting this, that i also noticed bean animal is recommending to people, is that out of my 3 calfo holes, instead of being completely level/equal, one was actually about 2-3mm lower than the other two. i couldnt work out but before my open channel was doing more syphoning than the syphon, and this made me figure out that it was due to this. bean animal is actually saying that you can put your syphon hole up to 10mm lower than the open channel and emergency holes, to make it much easier to tune/adjust to begin with. something for others to note. i have now changed over so this lower hole is the syphon instead of another one of the overflows which has made the system much easier to tune.

im glad that its figured out and works perfectly now no matter how many times i turn the power off and on, oh - and theres no way on earth i will touch that ball valve regulating the main syphon flow unless its do or die!!
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