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Derek & Trish's Ultimate Reef - 15/11 Update

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Derek & Trish's Ultimate Reef - 15/11 Update

Postby Deek » Thu 15 Oct, 2009 1:09 pm

Derek and Trish's Ultimate Reef
Summary updated 11/8/10

Hi all, this is our second reef tank. After maintaining our first tank for two and a half years we had so many things that could have been upgraded, so we thought we should just get a new tank. Our first tank was a 4x2x2 mixed reef, you can see the old TJ here. We have learned a lot about reefing through this tank and this time around the planning is going to be much better to make sure we have exactly what we want. We have since found out that no matter how much planning you do, it is not enough to prevent any problems...

System Objectives: A very clean, neat, well planned, open top SPS reef with lots of open space, white sand and fish.
System Type: SPS reef

Display System:
Strike up Date: 10/5/2010
Display Tank: 6.5x2.5x2 eurobraced starfire tank - Custom built by Dennison at Mary Anne's Aquariums
Display Lighting: 6' Giesemann Spectra 3x250W + 4x80W
Stand: 2500x770x850 steel stand - Custom built by Dennison's Dad
Hood: None
Sump: 4x2x1.3 - Sump will include - skimmer, live rock & removable-DSB, DIY ozone reactor and media reactors

Support systems:
System Water: D-D H2Ocean Pro
Display Water circulation: 3 x CL systems each running 3 Reeflo Hammerhead Gold pumps
Return Pump: Reeflo Super Dart Gold
Skimmer: ATB Medium Internal
Evaporation Top Up: Tunze Osmolator

Chemical Support:
Calcium/Alkalinity/Magnesium Addition: Balling method using BM 3 pump unit with internal controller to dose Ca/Alk/Mg. Adjustment of salinity will be via removal of skimmate and water changes.
Ozone: Sander C200 controlled by Milwaukee ORP Controller.
Media: TLF Hydrocarbon 2 GAC and Rowaphos GFO run in separate fluidised bed filters.
Supplements: Prodibio - BioDigest, Bioptim, Reef Booster.

Images: Here are a couple of the latest ones.

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Last edited by Deek on Mon 15 Nov, 2010 9:51 pm, edited 46 times in total.
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Re: Derek & Trish's Ultimate Reef

Postby K.Sea » Thu 15 Oct, 2009 1:14 pm

Deek wrote:
System Type: Mixed reef with majority SPS



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Postby Deek » Thu 15 Oct, 2009 4:48 pm

You forget to plug in your keyboard Casey, so you could only use emoticons?!? :roflmao:


Ok, so here is a couple of drawings of the tank plan. It will be made of 12mm glass by Dennison.
It has a one piece eurobrace at the moment, but I don't know how much that costs yet...

I have added the 4 Vortech pumps on the back glass to hide them and reduce the noise as much as possible.
But I am not sure if they will move the sand at the front of the tank. I want to have a nice fine white sand.
What do people think about a sandstorm? Or even just the sand at the front being pushed back? That happens on my current tank and we hate it!

If it does disturb the sand, I will have to put them on the ends I guess.

I was originally going to try a closed loop system much like Rod the Reefer's, but I prefer the ease of planning the Vortech system and the flexibility it gives.

Image

The external weir box will have a siphon/durso/backup/return in that order from left to right.

Image


This is my second weir design.

This one basially has a full length wier for maximum surface skimming, although I think that if I put the Vortechs on the back they will basically prevent much surface skimming on the sections of wier above the pumps.

What do people think about this option? This is my prefered option for massive surface skimming but I don't know if its worth it...

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Postby Dan » Sat 17 Oct, 2009 9:18 pm

nice! love the 2nd design weir
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Postby PapaG » Sat 17 Oct, 2009 9:25 pm

I like option two, just because it's cool. But overall, the water is going to go down either way and the surface will still skim. Option two though is probably going to be a lot more expensive, and there are a heap more seals etc where you could have problems in the future.
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Postby Deek » Sat 17 Oct, 2009 11:49 pm

Thanks Dan,
I think its a cool design. I want to get a big flow through the sump as we plan to have lots of live rock down there, and not much in the display.



Yeah, you are right PapaG.
If all the weirs are the same level they will all draw the same amount of water each. Simple hydraulics I guess. lol

We are not keen to have pumps on the ends of the tank, so if Vortechs can't be put on the back without moving sand at the front wall we will go down a closed loop system similar to Rod the Reefers.



Update on the lights, we ordered the 6' Geisemann. The fixture has SE 250W MHs but you can change the ballasts and upgrade to 400W if you want. But I am thinking that 250W will do just fine. It is a wider fixture also, compared to other fixtures and it has bigger MH reflectors. It does not have any computers to 'break', one less electronic thing. And it looks great! They are the main reasons we went with this fixture. And I just really like Giesemann stuff.

It is leaving Germany next week and should be here in mid/late Nov. We can't back out now! :thumbsup:
Last edited by Deek on Sun 18 Oct, 2009 7:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Lutjanus » Sun 18 Oct, 2009 2:10 pm

Another option if you haven't already thought of it would be to have an external coast 2 coast overflow. You can have the 3 pipes exiting the back of the weir.

:thumbsup:

That would eliminate the need for the box to come down in the middle.
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Postby sydneydrewid » Sun 18 Oct, 2009 2:13 pm

what about the second deisgn with a calfo setup rather than a durso, you could use the back as a frag tank :thumbsup:
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Postby Deek » Sun 18 Oct, 2009 3:20 pm

Lutjanus wrote:Another option if you haven't already thought of it would be to have an external coast 2 coast overflow. You can have the 3 pipes exiting the back of the weir.

:thumbsup:

That would eliminate the need for the box to come down in the middle.

We want to keep the pipes coming from the bottom of the overflow box so we can put the tank flush up against the wall and minimise the total tank footprint while still having an external weir.

We also thought the middle box should be lower to ensure enough water head to start the siphon automatically. How much pressure do you think I would need to start the siphon?

Thanks for making me think about this huge box design a bit more. :thumbsup: I will reduce the depth of the box in the middle as its a bit of a waste of glass. And if I put my siphon at the bottom, all the water in the overflow box will drain to my sump when the return pump stops... lots of additional water to store in the sump. :spit:


sydneydrewid wrote:what about the second deisgn with a calfo setup rather than a durso, you could use the back as a frag tank :thumbsup:
Doesn't the Calfo use a durso as the 2nd overflow? Mine won't be set up like some of the pictures I have seen, but the principles seem to be the same unless I have it all wrong. :konk:

Haha! we could make it a frag tank :thumbsup:
But we are going to be covering all that stuff up to hide the overflow and Vortech's at the back. We are going to use the same cladding from the stand to cover the gaps on the sides and maybe black acrylic to cover the overflow.
Last edited by Deek on Sun 18 Oct, 2009 5:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby sydneydrewid » Sun 18 Oct, 2009 3:55 pm

yes they are similar, cept the calfo uses a shallow weir, so you wouldnt have to have the big drop in the centre at the back, and so you could use the back for frags :)
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Postby Deek » Sun 18 Oct, 2009 5:39 pm

Ahh cool, I get ya now. I am still a little concerned about the siphon starting by itself. I might get one of the hydraulic engineers at work to work out the water height I need to start the siphon, maybe I can get rid of the big box.

I am thinking the air line attached to the Calfo's 2nd pipe is cool how it converts to a siphon if the level gets too high.

I am also thinking of having a plain flat weir without a comb on it. Or is that going to be a big mistake?

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Postby Deek » Mon 19 Oct, 2009 5:30 pm

Here is my process flow diagram (PFD) of the system as a whole. I know I have left a few things out - Heaters, probes, vortechs - but it shows most of the important stuff.
It would be really great to get as much feedback on the system as possible, both positive and negative.
I don't know if I have forgotten something important or mixed up the order of things in the sump or whatever.

This is a link to a very big version.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/7491/tankpfd1.jpg

Image

Being a chemical engineer this is the best way for me to see how it all fits together and I really need to see the system as a whole rather than a few smaller systems separately.

Here is a description of the system starting at the display tank. Note that some valves are labelled NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open):
- Display tank - Will have 4 Vortech MP40s at this stage on the back wall - Limited rockwork
- Weir - Water over full length weir into external overflow box
- Standpipes - 3 pipes to sump - siphon/durso/backup - siphon will take 95% of the flow with durso taking 5% approximately
- Durso - Durso standpipe will normally flow into a water change tank upstream of the main sump
- Water Changes - Water change will be completed by bypassing the water change tank using valves, then draining the Water Change tank to a nearby floor drain using a siphon hose. This tank will then be filled with RO/DI water from the Reservoir in the back yard, this is so it can be filled quickly without waiting for RO water to be made...
I don't like waiting for RO water! :furious: Salt is then added and it is mixed with a small powerhead. The durso standpipe is then again directed to this zone and is back to normal operation.
- Mixing new water in - The new salt water for the water change is then mixed into the system water slowly as the durso flow is low compared to the full siphon flow. This removes the need for heating the new water and also reduces the impact of the different water chemisty. :thumbsup:
- Inlet Zone - Inlet zone will take flow from the siphon and water change tank
- Filter Socks - Filter sock zone will have 1 or 2 large holes in the glass and brackets to fit filter socks used to filter detrius from the water so it does not build up in the live rock zone
- Live/Base Rock - Live rock area will have lots of live rock/base rock supported on a small eggcrate stand and maybe a small powerhead to increase circulation. This zone is very important and will be made as large as possible as we won't have the traditional huge pile of rock in the Display tank
- Filter Sock - Water then flows to the second filter sock zone to catch detrius produced by the live rock zone. I feel that removing as much detrius as possible greatly improves the efficency of the rest of the system as it is not left in the tank to decompose.
- Skimmer - Skimmer zone, to house an internal skimmer. We might still go for an external, but it costs more and could leak, etc. We are looking at the ATB cone skimmers. :thumbsup: I have asked Anton if I should go for the Medium or Large model. The large will be a very tight squezze and we would be forced into an external model as it would be imposible to service in the sump. I am hoping he recommends the Medium, lol
- Bubble trap - boring...
- Frag area - I don't know if I need this? Why do I need a frag area?? I am thinking it is to house a few frags I cut before selling/trading them? This would need lighting which annoys me quite a bit, I did not want to have too much heat under there...
- Return zone - The level in here will be controlled by my current Tunze Osmolator
- Auto top off - The osmolator will draw from an Auto Top Off container under the stand. Depending on the size of the Auto Top Off container, it will be filled by a float valve or a manual valve from the RO reservoir outside.
- RO/DI water - This will be made using my current PSI Filters unit. I plan to have a large reservoir outside the back door to hold enough RO water to do at least one water change and fill the Auto Top Off container. This reservoir will be kept full with level switches controlling a solenoid valve on the mains water line to the RO filter. I hope to have a second reservoir to hold the waste water to be used on the garden. The waste water only have 400-500 TDS so it should still be OK on the gardens.
- Rotameters - I will have 2 rotameters. These are a type of flow meters. They have a cone shaped weight in a clear tube which 'floats' in the water flow. One on the full return flow and one on the tee to the chiller. I hope to judge pump performance based on the flow it is producing and also tune the chiller flow correctly. The sump is a huge part of the system so I want the flow to be monitored. :thumbsup:
- Flushing Hose - This flexi hose will be used for detrius blow-off in the display tank, live rock zone in the sump and anywhere else. Its a simple tee off the return line. It will be long enough to reach the whole tank/sump.
- Chiller - Chiller will be installed outside and will be fed by a tee off the return line. Flow will be controlled by valves.
- Return - The return water will go back into the tank via locline fittings through the overflow box - completing the system :clap:


Things I have not thought too much about and could use some advise on are:
- Calcium reactor size and placement
- Carbon (and Phosphate if required) fluidised bed reactors size and placement
- Heater placement
- Probe placement


:cheers:
Deek
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Postby Deek » Mon 19 Oct, 2009 5:44 pm

Just to confirm, my sump won't be long and thin like in the Process Flow Diagram, as its just a diagram to show the whole system. It is not to scale or anything either. :thumbsup:
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Postby sydneydrewid » Mon 19 Oct, 2009 5:46 pm

:roflmao: im glad to hear it :thumbsup:

everything looks well thought out, im going to have to study the bigger pic for ideas :poke:
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Postby blackers10 » Mon 19 Oct, 2009 8:13 pm

rather than start the dedicated frag section why not just have a magnetic frag rack in the Display when you need it and just take it out when your not using it..
if you DO end up using it alot then utilise the frag segment in your sump etc then your not spending the extra on a light you may never use
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Postby Lutjanus » Mon 19 Oct, 2009 8:21 pm

Just a thought.

In the section after Filter Sock A, it might be better placing your skimmer there so that only "clean" water is flowing over your rock then to your frag section.

Excellent diagrams, everything is set out clearly :cheers:
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Postby Deek » Mon 19 Oct, 2009 10:02 pm

sydneydrewid wrote::roflmao: im glad to hear it :thumbsup:
everything looks well thought out, im going to have to study the bigger pic for ideas :poke:

:roflmao: no worries :thumbsup:


blackers10 wrote:rather than start the dedicated frag section why not just have a magnetic frag rack in the Display when you need it and just take it out when your not using it..
if you DO end up using it alot then utilise the frag segment in your sump etc then your not spending the extra on a light you may never use

Yeah that's a really good idea :cheers: I might keep a small section for future frags, but fill it with more live rock for now. :thumbsup:


Lutjanus wrote:Just a thought.

In the section after Filter Sock A, it might be better placing your skimmer there so that only "clean" water is flowing over your rock then to your frag section.

Excellent diagrams, everything is set out clearly :cheers:

Thanks Leon. I was tossing up with these two options and I think it will come down to how I can configure the sump as a whole as to where the skimmer can fit. I will try to do it that way if I can though. :thumbsup: Cheers


Thanks for all the comments
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Postby Deek » Fri 23 Oct, 2009 9:28 am

I did some more planning yesterday...

- Sump has been sketched up and sent to Dennison - removed the second filter sock area and frag area. I just don't have the room for them
- I have a plan for the stand, might put up my sketch soon
- Return pump likely to be the Reeflo Barracuda, this will feed the display, the skimmer and the carbon/phos reactor
- Dosing pumps will be the Growtech Tec iii
- Skimmer will be an ATB medium internal
- Removed Auto top off container from cabinet - will pump directly from outside reservoir
- removed 3rd (backup) standpipe as I don't think its needed

:cheers:
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Postby Deek » Fri 23 Oct, 2009 11:16 am

:wavey:

Here are a couple of photos showing where the tank will be going.
In the first pic, the coloured post-its on the floor show where the corners of the stand will be going. The stand will be about 2.6m long and the tank only 2m. So there will be a 300mm bench on either side.
We will be finishing the stand in the same materials as the kitchen to match it in with our house.
Image

This photo shows the dinning room from the lounge - the old tank on the left, the new tank will be on the right and that big square bookcase will move to where our current tank is.
Image

Here is my stand/tank sketch. The top and sides will be the same granite as in the kitchen and bathrooms, and the door materials will be the same too.
Not sure if I will go with Brown or light grey door, we have both in the kitchen. This brown draws too much attention away from the tank I think.
Image


Let us know what you think about these plans.
Deek :thumbsup:
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Postby imf » Fri 23 Oct, 2009 3:16 pm

Firstly, I love your planning on this. :clap:

Here's a few thoughts.

1) I love the external overflow boxes, but hows the strength of them? My understanding is that the whole panel needs to be cut at the height of the overflow and then the extra 'blocks' siliconed back on to the top of the panel. Probably perfectly ok, but... :o

2) Having looked at the room the tank is going, did you consider a peninsula style tank? It seems like a perfect spot for one.

3) At the moment you have 10cm+ at the back of the tank for the overflow box and you also need to worry about covering up the sides etc. I'd personally condsider making the tank the extra bit wider and put the weir back inside the tank. This way you'd be able to get it nice and close to the wall and I think you'd still have the nice clean look when it's covered in black acrylic.

4) If you did the above you can use dry boxes for the vortechs. This could leave them on the back wall and also overcome the issue of them pointing straight at the front glass if you were creative.

Good luck with whatever you decide. I'll be watching with interest.

Cheers,
Ben
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Postby Deek » Fri 23 Oct, 2009 4:29 pm

Hey Ben,

Thanks for the ideas :thumbsup:

1. With the overflow box, I dunno... :spit:
I will check it out with Dennison and make sure its strong enough. I did some calcs on how much water will drain to the sump when the return stops, and I worked out there is only about 5L of water in the overflow box if I design it smaller than my previous sketches. So there is hardly any weight on it. :thumbsup:

2. Believe me, we thought about this. I have suggested it a few times... Trish is very concerned about making the house look dominated by the tank.
A peninsula style would work great in the house, but then it would be bigger, and then we would need bigger everything! Just too much money.
I was very keen for a huge 2000L display tank but I actually really like the size we settled on now as its not too huge! :)

3. I though of heaps of weir designs. Internal weirs bother me because you can't access the standpipes with bracing in the way. And I definitely want all that stuff hidden.
I will have a closer look at the dry box idea for the Vortech's and the design at the back there. :-s


How much room do the vortech pumps need back there? I think they are about 60mm long on the dry side.

What colour would be best to cover stuff up around the back? White or black, or grey to match the cabinet?
I was thinking of doing plasterboard to match the wall, but it might not be the best idea.


:cheers:
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Postby PapaG » Fri 23 Oct, 2009 6:30 pm

Hey Derek

I don't have any suggestions as such, but I was thinking about your weir. If you have an external weir located in the middle and a 2.5ft wide tank, it's is going to be pretty hard to access the bottom of the weir from the front, and probably equally as difficult from the side. That's if you go for the shallow full length weir that drops into the deeper part in the middle. What happens if a fish manages to go weir surfing (blenny etc)?

And what do you mean by a dry box for the vortechs Ben?

As for covering around the back of the tank, I would probably go the same colour as the cabinet. Are you having a hood/shroud? In terms of making the tank stand out from the cabinet, I think black, dark brown (maybe not wood) or white always looks good and makes the colours in the tank seem brighter.

Love the red tiki by the way...:roflmao:

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Postby Deek » Fri 23 Oct, 2009 9:20 pm

imf wrote:My understanding is that the whole panel needs to be cut at the height of the overflow and then the extra 'blocks' siliconed back on to the top of the panel.

I just worked out what you meant by this :oops:
I think if we are getting the eurobrace cut as a one piece, we could get the 3 weirs cut out of the back panel no worries. :thumbsup:
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Postby Deek » Fri 23 Oct, 2009 9:40 pm

Thanks Dan,

Hmm, yeah i see what you are saying about the overflow and the access issues in the middle. I put the deeper section in the middle so I could access the Vortechs from the sides. I have made my current design only about 200mm deep in the middle, not full depth, but it might still be hard to get at.
:nut: So much to consider just for an overflow.

A dry box is just like an overflow box without water going into it. And you can install the dry side of the Vortech into it. Means you can put it at an angle to direct the vortech flow a bit more.

There will be no hood or shroud, total open top. :)
Will most likely go for very light grey doors and then the surround if we have it.

:roflmao: The tiki! Trish's favorite. We got that a few months ago in NZ when we went snowboarding.

:cheers:
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Postby Deek » Thu 29 Oct, 2009 5:39 pm

Update on the return pump.

I have been a bit quiet at work this last week so I have used my spare time to work out what return pump I will need to use.
I have chosen to use a new Sequence pump as they have low power draw but still have high flow.
Also they are external dry mounted pumps so the heat is not being put into the system which is good for sunny QLD. :thumbsup:


Here are the system curves and pump curves I have made and a bit of a description.
If anyone wants to know more about this stuff, I will be happy to explain further.

A system curve (BLACK) is how a given pipework system will perform at any given flowrate - if you force more flow down the pipe, there will be more headloss.
You can see all three system curves start at 1.2m head - this is my static head from the sump water level to the display water level.
There are three system curves - the systems are built from 32mm, 40mm and 50mm hard PVC pipework.
I calculated these system curves using the friction factors of straight pipe, valves, bends and tees, etc.

A pump curve (RED) is how the pump performs - if you have a higher head to push against, you get less flow.
These pump curves are taken from the back of the Sequence pump box. They are the new Sequence 10000S, 12000S, 15000S and 18000S.

When a pump curve and system curve cross, it gives the flowrate that pump will produce if it is pumping through that pipework system.

Image

For example, if I get the 10000S and use all 40mm PVC pipework, I should get about 1.67 L/s or 6,000 L/hr which is about 6.7 times my display tank volume. Spot on if you ask me! :thumbsup:

I will be going for either the 12000S or the 10000S. The two bigger pumps have way too much flow and draw more than double the power.
The pump curves for these two pumps are very similar but the thing I like about the 10000S is that it is physically much smaller.

10000S foot print = 177mm x 273mm
12000S foot print = 203mm x 457mm
So I would be saving nearly 200mm of length - this could make my sump 200mm longer... :banana:

:cheers:
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Postby Deek » Thu 29 Oct, 2009 5:48 pm

Puppy update! :roflmao:

Here is a pic of our new little puppy Indigo.
She is a dark pepper and salt Mini Schnauzer. Such a little ball of fun! :thumbsup:

She is a about 2 months old in this pic and is nearly 4 months old now.

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Postby rhysmarkun » Fri 30 Oct, 2009 4:38 pm

Hi Derek and Trish I have been reading both your TJ's and your new tank sounds like its going to be amazing. I am probably at about the stage you were at in 2007 just starting out with my new (second hand) 4 foot tank. haven't got a TJ yet but have been reading everyone else's like mad. hopefully get one up and going over summer.

your old TJ's pics didn't load for some reason, so can only gauge your current setup from the pic in the background of this one. looks nice, any chance for a FTS in this TJ.

Also I am a Mechanical engineering student at QUT in my third year having a bit of trouble finding work for the summer period. Any chance you could help a fellow reefer out with some HR contact details of your company and maybe a good word.

I don't really have any contacts in the industry so I could really use a hand.

cheers Rhys
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Postby rhysmarkun » Fri 30 Oct, 2009 5:00 pm

Oh also with your pump performance curves go to the manufactures website to find a graph that shows efficiency contours as well, will look roughly like this.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/docs/ ... _curve.png

For a centrifugal pump you should be able to find one with a peek efficiency at around 80%. This will be at a certain flow rate for that pump, match that flow rate to your desired and you will have a pump that will maximize your output with minimum power usage.

just my 2c
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Postby Deek » Fri 30 Oct, 2009 5:49 pm

rhysmarkun wrote:your old TJ's pics didn't load for some reason, so can only gauge your current setup from the pic in the background of this one. looks nice, any chance for a FTS in this TJ.

Hi Rhys,
That's weird, my imageshake account is still active and they load fine on my screen it seems. :pirate:
Here are a couple of better shots of the current tank a few weeks ago.
Image
Image

I have about 10 new corals since this picture - it was getting a bit empty due to my worm problem...


Another engineer - good to see :thumbsup:
I found it hard at first when looking for vacation work after 3rd year too. Some of my class mates with higher grades found it easy but I got knocked back alot. I eventually found some work at a paper mill here in Brisbane, it was good fun working in a big process plant.

Your best bet is to submit online applications for all the companies you are interested in. Our HR department say that's the best way to submit a CV. I will PM you with my company's details and you can go from there. I also sent my CV around to all the "chemical engineer" type processing plants around Brisbane - milk factories, butter factories, wastewater contractors - there are heaps of places that employ engineers, it does not have to be a big firm at all.

If you have already done all that and still had no luck, I would talk to your Uni lecturers and try to get vacation work at Uni in one of the labs. I was almost forced to do this but I luckily scored a job right at the end of the year. A friend of mine was unable to find any work and had to do it during the year. You can also do it in the holidays after 4th year if need be.

Good luck with it all! :thumbsup:
Hope you get some work, it is very hard to find right now...


About the pump curves, one of the guys here did say that I can look for the efficiency of the pumps, but I could not find any info like that. I knew the efficiency went down as you pump against more head, but I didn't know it goes down again towards the bottom of the curve. I guess it doesn't really matter if it draws 75W or 85W. I couldn't even find the pump curves online, I had to read all the values off the box... :nut:

:cheers:
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Postby rhysmarkun » Fri 30 Oct, 2009 6:59 pm

thanks, yeah the recession has been fairly unkind and alot of companies that took students last year are not taking any new ones this year. Had one interview but he only offered $100 a week for full time work...ouch doesn't even cover rent. So hopefully can find somewhere else.

love the big plates haven't got any sps in the tank yet as I'm only running some T5's but want to upgrade to MH over summer but now tossing and turning over LEDS cant decide, thinking I might have to try both.

how do you find the Gesman I'm thinking of going for a dual 250W aqua1 as I think the Gesman's where a bit exy, but then again I bought a Glo T5 system and have nothing but trouble with it so thinking of sacrificing cost for quality.

with the pump's yeh it's hard to justify doing the calc's or 70 or 80 watts, though if you match the pump to its highest efficiency area on the graph you will match what the designer intended it for, this will have benefits of a longer life for the pump, as well as less noise as there will be less separation losses through the impeller.

besides two engineers in the one household should smash the calc's and a good excuse to bust out Bernoulli's equation and a moody diagram.
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