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Shannon and Sarah's 1000L Zeovit SPS REEF!

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Shannon and Sarah's 1000L Zeovit SPS REEF!

Postby shannonpayne86 » Thu 17 Dec, 2009 11:22 pm

Introduction:
Hi,

My main aim is to set up a clean looking 1000L SPS Coral Reef with a mix of butterflies, tangs and angels!

System Objectives: SPS Reef with plenty of free swimming space!

System Type: Heavy SPS with fish.

Display System:

Strike up Date: Mid June 2010

Display Tank: 6.5x2.13x2.3 (2000x650x700mm)

Display Lighting: 8x80Watt Ati Power Module with Dimmable Ballasts :thumbsup:
(see Michael at Reefing Life, good business)

Stand: Custom Made C Shape stand with tank in middle.

Hood: Custom made.

Sump: 4 footer (1200x405x510mm)

Refugium: In Sump

Refugium Lighting: 75watt Bunnings Spotty

Support systems:

System Water: ASW - Red Sea Coral Pro Salt

Display Water circulation: 2x MP60w ES

Return Pump: Laguna 7000

Skimmer: Vertex Alpha Cone 250

Evaporation Top Up: Tunze ATO now broke :furious:

Cooling: Don't have it.... :devil:

Chemical Support:

Calcium Addition: Dosing Pump 260ml per day

Alkilinity Addition: Dosing Pump 330ml per day

Other Chemical Maintenance:
Magnesium: Dosing Pump 45ml per day

Current Water Chemistry:
Nitrates: 10ppm
Phosphates: 0.05ppm
Alkalinity: 9.5
Calcium: 460ppm
Salinity / Specific Gravity: 1.027
Magnesuim: 1450ppm
Last edited by shannonpayne86 on Thu 23 Feb, 2012 8:16 pm, edited 31 times in total.
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Postby gullforce » Fri 18 Dec, 2009 12:02 am

Looking good.
As far as drawing program goes - try Google sketchup, I started using it about 3 weeks ago, and it was pretty simple to get the hang of.

My advise is to future proof the whole setup as much as you are able to, think about what equipment you want to be running down the track, and ensure you have provision for it in your design.
new 750 litre sump build and 2 new display tanks
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=210265&start=0
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Postby isullivan » Fri 18 Dec, 2009 9:14 am

try Google sketchup


I second that, I used it to plan out my tank and stand....and the builders absolutely love the plans as it makes there job easier.

Also that hole in the base of the tank, is that for the drain to the sump or for the return line? Whats the reasoning for putting it in that position?
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Postby Macca_75 » Fri 18 Dec, 2009 9:47 am

even though I note you have Vortech's planned for the future IMO tunze may be a better option. I just found the Vortechs did have the push required. Front to back no issue - great pump.

Anyway, they both mount to the tank the same and it won't affect your design.
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Fri 18 Dec, 2009 10:01 am

Hey Mate, yeah i'm thinking that the holes's position will be right above the return from the sump = less plumbing and more end pressure =), bit new to it though so I don't know wether this is a good thing? Also will be having a bommie on the RHS of the tank and it will cover this hole nicely.

I have DL'd Google Sketch and am slowly learning how to use it, below is a very basic sketch up/screen grab (still learning the basics) of what I hope it will look like! Thanks guys.

Image

Should I add another hole for drainage? How many holes should I have, where is the best place for the drainage hole?
Last edited by shannonpayne86 on Sat 13 Mar, 2010 5:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby isullivan » Fri 18 Dec, 2009 12:52 pm

Should have guessed it was for the return from the sump seeing as though you have an external overflow for the drainage. You can certainly do it that way, although I have to admit I have never seen it done like that before, you may be the first. Just remember that dependant on how high you have the return piping in the tank, you will have to take into consideration drainage of water from the tank when the power goes out.

I am also assuming that the 2 holes within the external overflow are for a siphon and durso backup right? 2 is fine, there are other overflow designs out there, like BeanAnimal's (do a search on reefcentral and you will know what I am talking about) that require more holes, but for what your trying to achieve with a siphon and backup, 2 holes is perfect. I suppose the only thing is to try and get the size of the holes right based on how much flow you want. I went with what would be regarded as excessive sizes for my holes (a 40mm siphon and 50mm durso backup), but it is easier to back off too much flow with taps than it is to increase flow.
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Fri 18 Dec, 2009 9:25 pm

And now another design of the tank in 3D, with a second hole that I will use as a second outlet, would it be possible to use T piece on the pipe coming out of the second hole with use it as drainage for an emergency? The two holes in the DT are 50mm each, good size?

Image

And the weir (sort of top down view), are these good size holes (40mm dia.)? one will go to the sump and one will be for emergency or future use:

Image

View From The Overflow Side:

Image
Last edited by shannonpayne86 on Sat 13 Mar, 2010 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby isullivan » Fri 18 Dec, 2009 10:16 pm

Mate, to be honest, I would scrub the 2 holes in the DT, and just have the return lines come over the side of the tank where the overflow is (if you plan on splitting the return line, you could have 1 line on each side of the overflow). Also 50mm holes would mean that you would possibly have up to 40mm return lines which is way to big, particularly for the pump you plan on using. You should be looking at around 25mm return line, or even 20mm if you plan on splitting it from a single pump. You dont want a huge amount of flow through the sump, just enough to supply your skimmer and other filters with enough flow.

The only reason drilling holes in a tank like how you have it is if you are planning a closed loop system.

As for the overflow, most people go with a 40mm durso backup and 25mm siphon. So you will need to make the holes big enough to fit a 40mm and 25mm bulk head.

Hopefully some other people can chime in with some ideas.
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Fri 18 Dec, 2009 10:31 pm

Isaac, do you mean have the return line coming in the side of the tank, as in drill a hole in the side of the tank and have it come though there? Cheers for the help on the hole size, I literally have no idea, if anyone knowes a good link in regards to hole size and tried and tested designs i would really appreciate it so I dont waste other time. Thanks Isaac I really appreciate it.
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Postby isullivan » Sat 19 Dec, 2009 9:51 am

Nope, what I mean is to have the return line come up outside the tank, up past your overflow, so no holes drilled in the tank for the return line at all. But you could have a couple of holes drilled in the side of the tank for the returns. I think having holes drilled in the side for the returns or no holes at all are better options than having holes drilled in the base of the tank. It might be a good idea to have a look at other peoples completed tanks and how they have their return lines.

As for you overflow, have a look at this link viewtopic.php?t=168430 it should help explain a few things in relation to the siphon, durso setup.
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Sat 19 Dec, 2009 11:35 am

Front of Possible Sump: First Chamber is Skimmer and In, then bubble trap, then DSB and fuge (seperated with glass), then bubble trap then out, will probaly hook up my phosphate reactor to the last chamber, or the first, whatever is better?

<a href="http://s768.photobucket.com/albums/xx321/shannonpayne86/?action=view&current=SumpDesignFrontOn.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx321/shannonpayne86/SumpDesignFrontOn.jpg" border="0" alt="Sump Front On D1"></a>

Top Down Of Possible Sump: Is this a good design? Which way should I run the DSB and fuge?
<a href="http://s768.photobucket.com/albums/xx321/shannonpayne86/?action=view&current=SumpDesignTopDown.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx321/shannonpayne86/SumpDesignTopDown.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Thu 24 Dec, 2009 6:18 pm

Ok, now after talking to some more experienced reefers (thanks to Scooby especially for your time) I have now got an insight to what these tanks require and because of it have considerably changed my plans. I now plan to change the overflow and go with a 40mm durso and a 25mm siphon. the return will be T'd off and will also jet out of the side of the weir (pictures of plans will help show you what I mean when I get a second to draw). In the meantime though after researching different plumbing techniques I'm trying to put together a fish list. I need to get a 3 foot QT running as soon as this tank is in action for preperation.

POSSIBLE FISH LIST?????

Would these fish work in a 6.5x2.1x2.3 (2000mm x 650mm x 700mm/910Ltr/240gal):
1x Powder Blue Tang
1 x Blue Tang (AKA Regal Tang) (owned)
A RISKY decision, but could it work with this water volume?
1 x Yellow Tang
1 x Kole Tang
2 x Lubbocks Fairy Wrasse
1 x Banana Wrasse
6 FM Dispair Anthias & 1 M Dispair Anthias
1 x True Perc. Clown (owned)
3 x Blue Green Chromsus (owned)
4x Tang may be a bit hairy I know but just wondering if it's possible, I plan not to have the tank heavily decked out in SPS corals (although that's almost a sin) but instead a few softies/LPS and maybe some zoos.

Thanks guys.
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Sat 26 Dec, 2009 3:31 pm

Would this design work?
1 x 40mm Durso to sump
2 x 20mm Returns to tank with small hole just below waters surface to stop back syphoning
1 x 25mm Syphon to sump

Image

Overall dimensions of the tank are as follows with the overflow coming out 195mm.

Image

Planning to mount 3x JVP 6000lph powerheads either side of the weir (6 in total which is about 40x time over per hour) for the tanks flow . Then eventually exchange these with Vortechs, when we have built up some equity in our home hahahaha!!

Also think about adding this hole, maybe too close to the sides? (about 5cm away, could be moved further away which will be for draining the tank in an emergency and also water changes i think.

Image

Thanks for looking and please comment!!
Last edited by shannonpayne86 on Sat 13 Mar, 2010 5:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby radioman » Tue 29 Dec, 2009 12:02 am

Hi Mate,
Man, just settle a bit, I think you are going to hard and making things a bit hard for yourself. Let me suggest the following,
1. make the overflow a grate and get rid of the return pipes into on at the same level as the bottom edge of the grate, the tank will fill a bit past the bottom edge of the grate and then only drain to the bottom edge of the grate when the power is out. Its a bit hard to describe but will hopefully send a drawing shortly.
2. With your sump make it simple, drop the DSB and just make it a large fuge, you will get the best from the system and leave lots of space to grow stuff. I would suggest you get some Eco Reef Base(ERB) into the fuge when you start and be able to replace every 6 to 8 months, check this stuff out had lots of great success with this and works great.
Have you seen the filter sock and kits? I would strongly suggest you look around to find this, they are used in the first stage of the sump to filter the water as it comes from the main tank and can be replaced each week and cleaned, made up of 200 micron filter bag, will collect lots of muck from the display tank and save it from going into the refg and then back into the tank. check them out at this site http://www.aquabluedistribution.com.au/ ... filtration, I use them and they are great, I think the 7in sock and kit would be best for your system. I will be using them on my new 2200 system. Let me know if you need some help.
3. I think your fish list is okay but a bit risky with that amount of tangs, remember they will grow and need more space, just have to see how things go I guess. The other thing I would be worried about is the wrasse as they can disturb the tank, turning things over and rearranging everything.... also would be a bit worried if you were to add shrimp in the future as most warsse will get shrimp when they shed or at some time.
Just my thoughts and up to you which way you go, but you did ask. The rest looks great, will keep watch and see how things go. Consider a closed loop system for flow to the rockwork and take out some of the JVP-6000.

cheers Peter T
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Postby Darr1n » Tue 29 Dec, 2009 7:30 pm

The design of your tank is very similar to mine :thumbsup: .

Sump: keep it simple. I have seen so many fancy sumps, and having one would not make me a better reefer. Imagine how many times people will ask "why is it like that?", and I will reply "dunno, looks cool though". I agree in getting rid of the DSB, and just having the 3 chambers. I will have LR and macro in my refugium, that's it.

Tank: Mine is very much the same but weir is centre, and 2 returns (running 2 pumps), 2 to sump. I am simply going to run the returns over the weir (may cut some combe to run them through it neatly). The holes in the weir glass seems very complicated.

As for the extrta hole for draining the tank, I just think its a place for the tank to drain when you "don't" want it too. If I need to drain the tank, only I can make it happen. Might be convenient, but I just think no holes is safer/simpler.

I will also use poer heads to tank water turn over. I went down the closed loop system, but again it gets so complicated.

As for stock, I really can't help, my stock list for my 6x2x2 is likely to be no more than 5 fish. Again, simple, low bioload. I want to enjoy the tank for a few years before making it hard for myself. I have 2 centropyge (dwarf angels less than 2") in a 3 footer at the moment with heaps of LR, and I love the little guys :thumbsup: .
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Postby radioman » Tue 29 Dec, 2009 8:15 pm

Only reason I would consider a CLS is to get some flow to the other end and around the rockwork to help remove any dead spots. I dont think the powerheads will be enough from one end, the flow will be very little at the other end and dead spots will happen. If you dont want to do a CLS then look to somehow put some pumps down the other end of the tank or take your inlet from the sump to the other end along then inside of the hood area....
cheers
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Postby lux_06 » Wed 30 Dec, 2009 12:36 am

dont drop the dsb, there is no need for liverock in the sump, there is way more then our tanks need for bacteria populations in the aquascape as it is. but drop the bubble trap from the skimmer section, it does nothing.

stick with the first tank desisn with the external weir, then you can run a silent syphon system, rather than a durso.

return line can just come over the glass using pvc elbows. no need to drill holes, you can if you want tho... check mine out for an idea of how to do this if you want.

forget the jvp 3000lph pumps, they push bugger all water. instead maybe go 4 of the 12000lph ones, on timers, so you can run 4, 3, 2 at once to mix things up a bit, those will push water then length of the tank so you can mount them all on the end of the tank with the weir so you keep the other 3 viewin panes of glass free from powerheads.

dont worry too much about fish now, by the time you get this bad boy cranking, you will coose different fish anyways, i did :thumbsup:
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Sat 02 Jan, 2010 12:12 am

Thanks everyone for your feedback I will process it all and get back to ya, got some cash for chrissy so it's getting quite close to go time. Thanks a lot for all you help and recomendations, no doubt will have some questions soon
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Tue 05 Jan, 2010 2:40 pm

Hi Guys, Quick Update.
Have Ordered the steel to build my stand. My brother is welding the stand up for me (welding guru). The plan is below and is made out of 75x25 gal and 25x25 gal. Any suggestions please let me know as I have ordered the steel oversize and can make corrections as needed.

Image

There will be a shelf on the bottom (as you can see) which will house my sump and other equipment. I have two designs for this shelf the other I will post tonight, hope to get the stand started this weekend and complete the weekend after.
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Sat 16 Jan, 2010 7:19 pm

Ok. Just a quick update on what I plan the equipment set up to be. The display will be situated on the stand like this:

Image

The sump below is linked to a RDSB (probaly going to use flexible hose) which i will probaly run in-line with the chiller which is the grey box at the other end (will go to the chiller first, then through the remote RDSB and back in to the sump). The return line goes back to the DT (into the side as I think it will look neat). I will be using a 25mm Durso to go to the sump and then a 25mm siphon as a back up in case the durso blocks.
Skimmer will be in the first section of the sump then over a baffle to the refuge (aprox 2') then through the bubble trap to the return pump. I will also add a shelf (welded to the stand) whick will hold about a 50l container to hold RO water to go to a gravity fed float valve for the auto top up.

I will be running 4x 12000lph JVP Power Heads in the tank and 2x 6000 lph JVP's. (approx. 60x tank turn over per hour)

Please if anyone has suggestion add them. I will be using an acrylic tray on the bottom shelf of the stand to keep and little spills in the stand.

Below is a few more pics from different angles, not sure on the plumbing yet, this is just for demonstration purposes.

Image

Image

Image
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Postby StripestheEel » Sat 16 Jan, 2010 8:17 pm

:thumbsup:

Should be a ripper mate
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Postby bjrouse » Sat 16 Jan, 2010 9:23 pm

Yeh can't wait to see it in, wet and running
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Sun 17 Jan, 2010 8:57 am

Well I have awesome news and not so awesome news, my girlfriend has just booked a holiday for us for late feb to go and dive the great barrier which im really stoked about and is something I have wanted to do my whole life, but this kinda puts a hold on the tank money wise. So far The list of equipment I have:
Stand
Sump (current 4 foot which I will need to add baffles to)
Chiller
Lighting
Heaters
Protein Skimmer (will need to upgrade when bio load gets heavier)
Fluid Bed Filter
Pump for remote RDSB
Powerheads will be here 29/01

Gear I need to Get:
Plumbing
Return Pump
Display Tank

So the display tank order will be placed immediately after I return from my holiday. And my return pump I will purchase beforehand. So a pretty lengthy delay unfortunately but I think the dive on the Barrier reef is a worthy cause.
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Postby bjrouse » Sun 17 Jan, 2010 10:11 am

shannonpayne86 wrote:Well I have awesome news and not so awesome news, my girlfriend has just booked a holiday for us for late feb to go and dive the great barrier which im really stoked about and is something I have wanted to do my whole life, but this kinda puts a hold on the tank money wise.


I say, just for [censored] and giggles, tell her you'd rather spend the money on the tank and see what kind of response you get.
Film it and then put it on here for us all to have a laugh :thumbsup:

GBR is awesome. I have to go diving there myself sometime soon.
Going to Fiji next weekend doing the same thing
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Sun 17 Jan, 2010 10:54 am

hahaha... lucky bugger, yeah I don't think i'm gonna try that one for my own safety. You know what it's like..... hey babe (insert something related to tank here) her response: is that all you ever talk about.... hahaha
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Tue 19 Jan, 2010 5:26 pm

Stand should be ready for powdercoat by the end of next week!!
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Postby bjrouse » Tue 19 Jan, 2010 6:17 pm

shannonpayne86 wrote:hahaha... lucky bugger, yeah I don't think i'm gonna try that one for my own safety. You know what it's like..... hey babe (insert something related to tank here) her response: is that all you ever talk about.... hahaha


I know exactly what you mean.
For the moment I am using..."Babe, I have spent this much so far, I need to keep going to fill it to make it worth while" or "This (insert piece of equipment here) will make it cheaper in the long run"...So far it's working
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Postby Luka13 » Tue 19 Jan, 2010 9:08 pm

Nice solid plans you got there.

Your barrier reef trip is a good way of further researching what to put in the tank.
"If you accept the doldrums of life you'll never be a surfer"
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Postby StripestheEel » Wed 20 Jan, 2010 12:19 am

Image

With the drain for water changes I would have a look at doing it how I have. I have a hole on the back pane (weir end) which is calculated to take 500L out for water changes. Might make you feel a lot better not having a hole in the bottom of the tank.
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Postby shannonpayne86 » Wed 20 Jan, 2010 10:14 am

StripestheEel wrote:
With the drain for water changes I would have a look at doing it how I have. I have a hole on the back pane (weir end) which is calculated to take 500L out for water changes. Might make you feel a lot better not having a hole in the bottom of the tank.


Cheers Matt, to be honest I had kinda scraped that idea, the thought of that bulkhead failing is just too much. I think I will steal that idea mate and put it in about 150mm down from the top of the tank which will drain approx 200L for water changes.

Thanks mate.
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