• Advertisement
RTAW Advertiser

Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

The purpose of this forum is to allow people to showcase their tanks, and allow other uses to ask questions on equipment, livestock, methodology etc.

Moderators: Moderators, Mod: Tank Journals, Promotions, Competitions & Sponsorship

Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Sat 05 Dec, 2020 12:30 am

A colleague of mine has recently set his own reef tank, and his experience and set up got me interested in giving it a shot too. Having had tropical fish in my youth followed by a period of travel and living overseas I have now found myself settled enough to commit to something like this.

Initially I set up a spreadsheet adding up all I would need to spend to get going. And to be frank it came to quite a fearful sum. Although I could have afforded it, it would have been a huge leap of faith knowing that many people abandon new hobbies. And also having a 19 month old boy I am acutely aware of my time limits, with Family coming absolute first followed by work.

So my early decision was that to do this sensibly, I should focus on using as much second hand gear as possible. Another approach inspired by my colleague will be to automate as much of the regular maintenance as possible, ideally meaning there is less chance I will suffer from 'maintenance fatigue'. And also meaning that my tank will be less likely to suffer when my other priorities are overwhelming. The idea here will be to set up auto water changes, and also utilise a tank monitoring system.

After watching countless hours of BRSTV videos on ULM tanks and other topics, and talking myself out of a good ideal tank setup that was for sale I jumped at the next tank that came up: A Red Sea Reefer 350 with a few extra bits and pieces that would get me going initially, but being 4 years old and not the highest quality (the parts, not the tank) will most likely need replacing fairly quickly.

Here is what I picked up.
Tank and stand: Red Sea Reefer 350 with white cabinet. The tank is 4 years old and has a few scratches on it, and a minor repair on the sump but otherwise in good condition.
'ct' brand lights: Chinese brand, reportedly good quality by the seller but not what I envisage as my longer term ideal
Pumps: Maxspect Gyre XF230s
Dosing: Kamoer x4 doser with containers
Skimmer: Bubble Magnus curve 5
Return Pump: Tunze
Heaters: 1 x 300w and 1 x smaller unit
A few other odds and ends: Nutrients, Hannah Phosphate checker etc

Separately I also picked up three boxes of dry rock (used) and another pair of Maxspect XF230 Gyres. These were a bit of an impulse purchased but were a great deal being only a couple of months old.

On the day of removal with the help of my mate, although we were pretty well prepared and knew what to expect, we decided to play it safe and leave the tank in my garage instead of trying to get it up the single flight of steep stairs and down the back of the house to it's intended position. This ended up being quite fortuitous as it gave me a chance to give the tank a closer inspection with 360 degree access to clear out the overflow which the seller couldn't get to.

Here is a view of my first pass overflow clean up. I neglected to take a photo of it before hand, but needless to say there was a good cm or so of gunk at the bottom, and white calcareous material down the sides.
Image

And a couple of photos of the tank:
ImageImage

The next stage will be to try and buff out the scratches, and then relocate the tank and stand to it's final position.
Last edited by Quombat on Tue 08 Dec, 2020 5:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby CheezotheClown » Sun 06 Dec, 2020 2:11 pm

G'day Quombat, good one for starting a journal :thumbsup: I'll be following along.

Where did you get the rock from? I'd be cautious or at least mindful that the rock may be harbouring PO4(phosphate) which will leach out if the rock was used previously. I'm currently soaking my old live rock across 4 tubs filled with RODI and using LaCl (lanthanum Chloride). PO4 still leaching out after three weeks and I blasted the rock with the pressure cleaner too.
User avatar
CheezotheClown
Old Sea Dog Reefer
 
Posts: 3713
Images: 55
Joined: Thu 19 Oct, 2006 6:55 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Sun 06 Dec, 2020 3:14 pm

CheezotheClown wrote:G'day Quombat, good one for starting a journal :thumbsup: I'll be following along.

Where did you get the rock from? I'd be cautious or at least mindful that the rock may be harbouring PO4(phosphate) which will leach out if the rock was used previously. I'm currently soaking my old live rock across 4 tubs filled with RODI and using LaCl (lanthanum Chloride). PO4 still leaching out after three weeks and I blasted the rock with the pressure cleaner too.


Hi Cheezo, thanks for reading and thanks for the encouragement!
I picked up the rock from someone that was shutting down their larger tank. It's been out long enough to dry but yes, I was expecting to have to soak it somehow - just hadn't quite gotten to the 'how' part of that. Thanks for the LaCl tip - is this something readily available from supermarkets or hardware stores, or is it more of a specialised aquarium chemical? I had the (very!) rough idea of dipping in 1:1 white vinegar with tap water, followed by a rinsing soak in RODI prior to putting it in the tank.. I think the vinegar being so acidic will eat the rock away if I leave it in for too long.. But if I got the timing right it could remove just enough to dislodge any remaining organic matter.. Could this be an acceptable approach?

It does sound like something I should begin sooner rather than later considering it might take more than three weeks as you have experienced..
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby CheezotheClown » Sun 06 Dec, 2020 3:39 pm

I wouldn't bother giving the rock an acid (vinegar) bath. Scrub loose whatever you can and if you can access one I can recommend the pressure cleaner otherwise the garden hose set to "jet". You are trying to flush out anything in the pores and holes. You will be surprised with how much crap has accumulated in the rock. Also expect to get wet.

The Lanth is easily available from the pool shop, $40 - https://poolandspawarehouse.com.au/lo-c ... arver.html

I said Lanthunum Chloride, it is in fact Lanthunum Glycolate Hexahydrate. Small difference but different way to apply. The LaCl would need to be filtered out as the product is completely soluble until it binds with the PO4 whereas the Glycolate is insoluble - decant from package, let it settle and decant the clear liquid to waste and sit the sediment in a jar, fill with water and place in the tub with a gentle flow. It is not critical if the sediment gets out with this process because you will be washing off anything before using it in the display tank anyway. The sediment will need to be gently stirred every couple of days as the top exposed layer binds with the PO4 and creates a crust preventing the binding process from continuing. I think I started with 50ml of the product from the packet per tub but have added more. Probably double up and start with 100ml per tub. It isn't critical as it is not in the display system, there is nothing to shock. The caveat being be sure to research further the dosing recommendations before using this stuff in the display system.
User avatar
CheezotheClown
Old Sea Dog Reefer
 
Posts: 3713
Images: 55
Joined: Thu 19 Oct, 2006 6:55 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Tue 08 Dec, 2020 6:15 pm

So I gave the rock a blast with the hose today, and now soaking in tap water until I can get the Lanth. No water circulation just yet as the water is pretty mucky and I don't want to wreck my Gyres. Plan is to drain, wash again and then soak in Lanth as you suggest and checking the Phosphate every now and then.
There is evidence of dead and dried coral on the rocks still, including Zoas. Should I avoid any scrubbing if these are present or should it be okay. Perhaps a dip in white vinegar as a precaution?
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby CheezotheClown » Tue 08 Dec, 2020 8:00 pm

I'm not sure if the palytoxins are still active tbh, someone else might need to chime in there. Without a definitive answer you're probably best to treat it with caution and use appropriate eye protection and maybe a face shield or covering, I hear they're all the rage atm. Scrubing it under water should prevent anything getting airborne though.

Best to try and avoid the tapwater bath because of the risks of phosphate in the water. Better is to use RODI.
User avatar
CheezotheClown
Old Sea Dog Reefer
 
Posts: 3713
Images: 55
Joined: Thu 19 Oct, 2006 6:55 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Wed 09 Dec, 2020 7:00 pm

Thanks for the heads up on the tapwater, I'll pull them straight out and hold off until my RODI system arrives.

I'm not wanting to take any risks with it at all, particularly given I don't know the recent history of the rock.. According to this thread on R2R:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/palyt ... st-3489068

“Palytoxin can be neutralized by soaking the coral for 30 minutes in a ≥0.1% household bleach solution (1 part 5%–6% sodium hypochlorite [household bleach] to 10 parts water, prepared fresh). Contaminated items should be soaked in diluted bleach before disposal.”

..

"After all the palys are gone, do a soak in freshwater with a strong dechlorinator."
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby CheezotheClown » Thu 17 Dec, 2020 11:24 am

Well there you go, of course bleach. Did the thread mention what to use as a dechlorinator?
User avatar
CheezotheClown
Old Sea Dog Reefer
 
Posts: 3713
Images: 55
Joined: Thu 19 Oct, 2006 6:55 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Sun 27 Dec, 2020 11:50 pm

I think they recommend the usual fish water conditioner - which is what I ended up using.
I've now also soaked in the lanth for a couple of weeks, with one water change in between and also spraying the rocks down in between each stage.
Unfortunately with some of the hot sunny weather we've been having here in Perth I've ended up with what looks like green algae growing on the rocks. So today I gave them a pressure wash and am now just waiting on 100L of RODI from my new setup to soak them and test for any remaining phosphate. Fingers crossed!
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby CheezotheClown » Tue 29 Dec, 2020 3:56 pm

The fact that you've had green algae growing in such a short time indicates to me that the rock will need more attention and more time for the phos to release unfortunately. The pressure wash would have helped for sure. Did you notice how much muck/detritus came out?
User avatar
CheezotheClown
Old Sea Dog Reefer
 
Posts: 3713
Images: 55
Joined: Thu 19 Oct, 2006 6:55 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Wed 30 Dec, 2020 2:49 pm

I think the majority of the muck seemed to have come out over the several standard hose pressure washes and water changes. The only thing I really noticed with the pressure wash was the change from algae green back to white! Do you think it could have just been the tap water I was using at the time?
Had then sitting in RODI water for a couple of days now, covered this time and have had a 0.02 phosphate reading with a baseline 0.04 for my fresh RODI - so I think that's within the +\- 0.02 accuracy range of the Hanna checker I'm using. How long do you think I should leave them soaking with stable readings to be sure?

Thanks again for your help.
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby CheezotheClown » Wed 30 Dec, 2020 8:13 pm

The thing is that the algae growth will be sucking up the available phos leaving your test to show less than is really present.

Tap water may be an issue, there are plenty of minerals in the Perth water but key would be to know if phos is showing up in that tap water. The RODI is supposed to remove any doubt with a baseline PO4 of zero. I'd say keep going with the freshwater and tubs whilst algae continues to grow on the rock. Blasting the algae away periodically is still beneficial as you are definitely exporting nutrients including PO4.

I moved my rock over to the tank and I've since confirmed that PO4 is still leaching. This is fine because I accepted to manage any residual in the tank, so ultimately it is up to you based on your plans for the tank and the effort you're willing to take to manage the PO4. You will be adding PO4 directly through feeding but the less residual to begin with the easier it will be to manage not only now but as the tank matures.
User avatar
CheezotheClown
Old Sea Dog Reefer
 
Posts: 3713
Images: 55
Joined: Thu 19 Oct, 2006 6:55 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Fri 08 Jan, 2021 2:21 pm

Bit of an update. I've built my water station and produced over 400L of RODI water so far.

Credit goes to the two very excellent sources of inspiration I drew on to pull this together:
TKipl's Peninsula 650 build at Reef2Reef: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-p ... 50.722850/
And Andrew's 6 foot mixed reef: viewtopic.php?f=148&t=263794

Here's the pipe work coming together, I went with 20mm PVC piping, though if I were to ever build one again I would spend a bit more time trying to get the 25mm option worked out - having said that the 20mm has been working well with the pump and tank sizes I have. You can also see the early stages of my manifold build towards the back.

Image

And after about one hundred visits to two different Bunnings, almost complete. Not the cleanest glue work, but functional.. That's how I roll.

Image

With some hired help, I got the tank and stand into it's final resting place.

Image

Think I'm pretty happy with my scape build. One lesson from this experience is that the 'D-d' type putty is by far and away the easiest to work with! I've tried to keep the scape fairly open to promote good flow, and also provide swimming and hiding spots for fish. This is possibly at the expense of future coral sitting spots but I'm okay with that. I ended up having plenty of left over rock so will probably put a couple of pieces in my sump so they can be transplanted to my quarantine tank when needed.

Image

After initially trying to squeeze in a larger manifold, I settled for a smaller version. Again the theme here has been simplicity, which is why I've stuck with a simply 90 degree bend after the return standpipe connection instead of a 360degree turn to try and raise the manifold up higher. I've maintained the 25mm diameter from the pump outlet into the 25mm manifold, with 19mm barbs coming off the left hand side for the chiller. The tap I've put in is to modulate the flow through the smaller diameter chiller lines. The plan for the spare outlets will be for a fuge and possibly a 1/4" connection tree for any reactors I might decide to run - though this will be way off in the future I think. Hopefully no leaks!

Image

Washed the sand as best I could, and started filling after leak testing the overflow. Now having to wait for the slow RODI refil..

Image

Impatiently filling without waiting for the full 200L of RODI to be made up. The water has cleared up a bit with some time to settle. Clearly have a bit of work to do tidying up the cables. The plan is to make up a nice mounting board.

Image
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby CheezotheClown » Sun 10 Jan, 2021 9:19 am

Looks great Quombat :clap:

Is that a floating floor or lino? Be sure to get to any spills if it's floating. If lino you could wait until the water evaporated and sweep up the salt :tongue:
User avatar
CheezotheClown
Old Sea Dog Reefer
 
Posts: 3713
Images: 55
Joined: Thu 19 Oct, 2006 6:55 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby johnact » Sun 10 Jan, 2021 11:06 am

Looks great Quombat.
If your having problems with phosphate check your water storage drums some plastics can leach them out this is why we don’t see beer in plastic bottles phosphate destroy beer too.
johnact
Bicentenary Reefer
 
Posts: 424
Joined: Mon 17 Nov, 2008 2:47 pm
Location: act

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Mon 11 Jan, 2021 3:22 pm

CheezotheClown wrote:Looks great Quombat :clap:

Is that a floating floor or lino? Be sure to get to any spills if it's floating. If lino you could wait until the water evaporated and sweep up the salt :tongue:


Thanks Cheezo! They're floating boards though I'm not too worried about them. I've got a couple of leak sensors around that should help detect any spills.
Last edited by Quombat on Mon 11 Jan, 2021 4:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Mon 11 Jan, 2021 3:24 pm

johnact wrote:Looks great Quombat.
If your having problems with phosphate check your water storage drums some plastics can leach them out this is why we don’t see beer in plastic bottles phosphate destroy beer too.


Thanks for the tip John, I'll certainly be keeping an eye on it. As far as I can tell the storage drums should be food grade for whatever that's worth.
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Mon 11 Jan, 2021 4:28 pm

A couple of updates over the weekend.
Managed to get my salt mixed and stabilised at 30ppt. Although quite a few places seem to recommend 35ppt or so, the back of the Red Sea salt sack I'm using says 30ppt for a fish only tank. So I'm sticking to that as it is considered hypo-saline and this apparently helps with any disease problems I may have with new fish, though I do plan to quarantine them also. I've put some additional rock into the sump so it can be transplanted over to the quarantine tank when the time comes.

On temperature, I'm a little uncertain what to aim for. I've left my chiller and heater off while there's no livestock in there, and the tank seems to be sitting between 25 & 27. On the balance of the differing views out there, 26 seems to be a good number to aim for. One thing I need to work out is how to ensure my heater and chiller aren't competing. At this stage I'm thinking I can trust the chiller to 'cool down to' 26, it seems to have at least a 0.5 degree sensitivity and to let the heater 'heat up to' 26. I have less accurate control on the heater as there's only a dial and no digital setting, so I plan to buy an inkbird thermostat to have better control over it and not wear out my Apex power board by constantly cycling the power. I may end up adding an 0.5 degree buffer in between the heater and chiller to ensure they don't overlap.. Will have to see how it goes.

Started the tank cycle process using a Red Sea 'Reef Mature' program. Day 3 and the water has become slightly cloudy which I think is a good indication that the bacteria is thriving. This evening I'll be doing a fairly comprehensive set of tests: (salinity, phosphate), pH. KH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate - not going to get too upset if the numbers aren't what the Red Sea program says they should be though.
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby johnact » Mon 11 Jan, 2021 5:15 pm

Set your heater to 24° and your chiller to 26° You’ll find works great.
With the salinity I would ask your lfs what they are running and go very close to this as shock to the fish will cause more of a problem than the actual level of salinity. You can always take water out and top up with ro over a period of a few days to lower the salinity to your liking.

Ps. Don’t worry about checking phos until you start adding food shouldn’t be any in there.
Just check your water source once if none you’ll be fine till fish and corals.
johnact
Bicentenary Reefer
 
Posts: 424
Joined: Mon 17 Nov, 2008 2:47 pm
Location: act

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby CheezotheClown » Mon 11 Jan, 2021 8:55 pm

johnact wrote:Ps. Don’t worry about checking phos until you start adding food shouldn’t be any in there.
Just check your water source once if none you’ll be fine till fish and corals.

In this case PO4 was definitely a consideration given the employment of "used rock". It'll probably still be leaching out so might be worth starting to address it now.

As for temps I think the key bit is to keep it stable within recommended limits which is my mantra for anything in the tank really. I set my chiller at 28 over summer and 26 over winter with the heaters set to 25 and 24 respectively. In summer the heat will not dissipate too much overnight, maybe a degree maybe 1.5 if the ambient temps dropped considerably. Even if the outside temps dropped to low 20's the heat soaked in the house keeps temps from moving quickly anyway and that affects the rate of temp change in the tank. For winter with the halides the chiller is set at 26 to keep temps stable ie within a degree of target. As a generalisation I try to target the temp that the tank would like to sit at naturally for the particular season with a lower limit of 24 and upper of 28, although I have gone with 29 for a few days to lessen the load on the chiller over those occasional heatwave run of days.

Natural Sea Water(NSW) is 35ppt or ~1.027 salinity. Hypo sits around 1.020/30ppt. If you've managed to keep crypto out of the display then there isn't really a reason not to run NSW figures. However if you're paying for salt then I would be looking for a good reason not to run at the lower salinity.
User avatar
CheezotheClown
Old Sea Dog Reefer
 
Posts: 3713
Images: 55
Joined: Thu 19 Oct, 2006 6:55 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby johnact » Mon 11 Jan, 2021 10:28 pm

The used rock wasn’t cooked?
johnact
Bicentenary Reefer
 
Posts: 424
Joined: Mon 17 Nov, 2008 2:47 pm
Location: act

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Tue 12 Jan, 2021 11:53 am

johnact wrote:The used rock wasn’t cooked?


I did put them through a process of bleaching, followed by soaking in lanth and then soaking in RODI. At the RODI stage I was still getting phosphate readings, however they were within the +\- 0.05 (if I recall correctly) accuracy of the Hanna checker. I recorded an 0.08 from the tank last night so I think it's looking okay for now.
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Thu 15 Apr, 2021 6:25 pm

So, I'm long overdue for an update! Tank has been running for almost 3 months now. In that time I've managed to keep my levels relatively stable, with only some minor battles getting my alkalinity under control with a couple of overdoses that I've put down to my testing.

I'm having a bit of an ongoing battle against hair algae, which I'm winning by dosing 5ml carbon (vodka) a day. The down side to this is that I have to clean out about 3L of bacteria goo out of my sump each day. So my longer term plan to address this is to get a Lawnmower Blenny and Fox Face. I've also drilled my ATO reservoir and converted it to a refugium. Though as with the Lawnmower Blenny, I'm really struggling to find any chaeto or pods in Perth! Interstate suppliers certainly won't send chaeto, and apparently they are even inspecting shipments of pods - and of course charging extra for the privilege!

Fish stock wise, I have 2 Ocillerous Clowns that have taken quite a liking to my BTA, a Blue Tang, Six Line Wrasse and a Mandarin Dragonet. All are happy sand healthy and I'm lucky that the Dragonet is happily eating frozen mysis. I've only had one loss, a sand sifting goby which got eaten up by my BTA (!!). Though this was right after I moved some of my rock around which makes me wonder if I somehow injured it making it more susceptible to getting stung. Otherwise, I also had to take to Black and White Clowns back to the shop. They were all getting along okay until the orange clowns took up residence in my BTA, and then became very territorial! I knew keeping multiple or mixed Clowns was asking for trouble.. But thought I'd give it a go. Lesson learnt.

Image

On the coral front, there's the BTA, an Orange Hammer, Frogspawn, Brain, and the latest additions are a Platyjarra and Bleeding Apple Scoly which I picked up half price. I've only recently started spot feeding which they're responding well to.

Here's the Bleeding Apple Scoly:

Image

Brain:

Image

Orange Hammer:

Image

Another recent development is that I've realised my initial scape design wasn't great. I had some large blocks up way too high, and tilting away from the front which really limited my coral placement options - you can see how I had this set up in one of my earlier posts. My thinking at the time was of fish having plenty of interesting caves and bridges but clearly didn't have a good understanding of what corals would need. So I've partly broken that down but am now in a bit of a frustrating limbo trying to work out what to do with it next.

Here is what I ended up with after removing one of the parts that was way too high and facing away from the front, plus two of the vertical parts that didn't really serve any purpose other than creating more shadowing. Apologies for the colour:
Image

And after a few days of despair and mulling this over some more, this is where I'm at. I realise it's a bit 'samey' but I'm much happier with it for the time being and will likely only make small adjustments from here. Now I have plenty more platform sections to place corals at different heights. You can see the clean new section that I built in the middle:
Image
Last edited by Quombat on Fri 16 Apr, 2021 12:07 pm, edited 11 times in total.
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby johnact » Thu 15 Apr, 2021 8:17 pm

The goo is from the vodka dosage if you half or quarter it should stop have you looked at bio pellets same theory but a lazy mans option once the goo has stoped you can raise the carbon source back.
johnact
Bicentenary Reefer
 
Posts: 424
Joined: Mon 17 Nov, 2008 2:47 pm
Location: act

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Fri 16 Apr, 2021 11:29 am

johnact wrote:The goo is from the vodka dosage if you half or quarter it should stop have you looked at bio pellets same theory but a lazy mans option once the goo has stoped you can raise the carbon source back.

Thanks yeah I thought it was broken down hair algae at first but then did come to the conclusion of it being bacterial.
Bio balls, I'll have to give that one a go! Is the idea there to increase the surface area for the de-nitrifying bacteria to grow, or are they designed to leach carbon themselves?
One interesting thing to note is that I've also seen the clarity of my water become noticeably better after starting the dosing..
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Fri 16 Apr, 2021 11:32 am

Quombat wrote:I've only had one loss, a sand sifting goby which got eaten up by my BTA (!!).

Unfortunately I wrote too soon... Yesterday evening after writing this post I noticed my blue tang was nowhere to be seen. Eventually found it down the back behind the tank stand :dead:
Another rookie lesson - I've had a net top sitting there unused all this time. Best put it to use from now on!
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Fri 16 Apr, 2021 12:29 pm

On the shopping list for this weekend is: Chaeto, Sandsifting Goby, Blue Tang (replacements) and a Foxface to take care of GHA. Then possibly some bioballs (Johnact's suggestion) plus a Lawnmower Blenny and copepods if I can find them anywhere!
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby johnact » Fri 16 Apr, 2021 1:30 pm

Quombat wrote:
johnact wrote:The goo is from the vodka dosage if you half or quarter it should stop have you looked at bio pellets same theory but a lazy mans option once the goo has stoped you can raise the carbon source back.

Thanks yeah I thought it was broken down hair algae at first but then did come to the conclusion of it being bacterial.
Bio balls, I'll have to give that one a go! Is the idea there to increase the surface area for the de-nitrifying bacteria to grow, or are they designed to leach carbon themselves?
One interesting thing to note is that I've also seen the clarity of my water become noticeably better after starting the dosing..

Bio pellets, bio balls were things fro the 80’s well before protein skimmers.
The reason the goo is that you don’t have the right population of beneficial bacteria yet so it goes to goo or a white film slime if you decrease the dose then gradually add over 4 weeks you won’t have a problem.
Bio pellets. They dissolve over a period of time need toppings up they are food for the beneficial bacteria that eat nitrates and phosphate from what I have read. You can also add in some zeo chemicals once your nitrate and phosphate are to your liking there is a possibility of running to clean of a tank you do need trace of phosphate and nitrate.
johnact
Bicentenary Reefer
 
Posts: 424
Joined: Mon 17 Nov, 2008 2:47 pm
Location: act

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Fri 16 Apr, 2021 4:06 pm

I see, thanks for the clarification. Thankfully the vodka dosing isn't too arduous as I've got a doser to take care of it. But I'll give halving my dose a shot. I have been hearing from a few people that zero nitrate and phosphate isn't a great thing - and your note on needing a trace confirms that also. Hopefully if I can get my refugium going plus more of a clean up crew I'll be able to completely drop the carbon dosing all together one day soon.
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Re: Quombat's First Marine Tank - A Red Sea Reefer 350

Postby Quombat » Sun 18 Apr, 2021 3:00 pm

Picked up some chaeto, and a Foxface yesterday. So have completely stopped the carbon hoping to get my nitrates and phosphates back up to detectable levels for the charro and also to try and grow algae in the display while the fish are quarantining quarantining over the next two weeks
Quombat
Curious Reefer
WA Reefer
 
Posts: 41
Images: 3
Joined: Wed 13 May, 2020 9:23 pm
Location: Perth

Next

Return to Reef Tanks (101 - 799 Litres)

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 11 guests

Societies
MASAOG MASQ MARQ MASS MASOV MASWA

Copyleft 2010 Marine Aquarium Societies of Australia Inc. (www.masa.asn.au)
Reefing the Australian Way is proudly brought to you by MASA Inc.